Wednesday, April 23, 2014

I was sitting at a bar when it hit me with what I can do with all my end grain cutting board scraps.

What to do with all those cut offs from my end grain cutting boards?

Round over the corners on the router, drill a one inch hole in the bottoms for the threaded fitting, apply some BLO, and then slap on a couple coats some poly while sanding in between.

Now head over to your favorite bar and give them their new beer tap handle to replace the generic crap ones.
My favorite local pub D&T Drive Inn chose the purple heart and maple handle.
One of my coolest customers Nobi Public House went with with the walnut and maple one.
Will woodwork for beer!

Monday, April 7, 2014

Chop Sticks Box

Here is a small  wedding present for my friends Mari and Chung.  I got the idea while we were traveling in South Korea and noticed everyone had a box to store the chop sticks and spoons.  The box is tiger maple and the lid and splines are purple heart. 

Friday, March 28, 2014

Walnut End Table

    My end table project is finally completed!  I can proudly say that it is the best that I have in me right now.

Here is my Quarter Sawn Walnut Mid Century inspired end table.  It was finished with coats of boiled linseed oil to bring out the beautiful  grain and then waxed several times to give it a great feel.  The drawer is solid walnut with dovetails joints.  The table is has continuous grain flowing around the body to the bottom where it is attached to the cross legs using wood dowels. 

Sadly I have misplaced most of my build pics since my last update.  I do however have a a couple of adding the finish to it.   As always thanks for looking, and I hope to add a few more projects soon.



Before and afters of adding a single coat of BLO to it.  One of the best parts is when you get to see what the wood really looks like after all the time you spend on it.

Wednesday, March 12, 2014

Inbox for Snail Mail

  After getting tired of having our mail scattered all over our kitchen counter I finally did something about it.  So I built a quick mahogany box with some jatoba in the bottom panel, as mitered splines and inlay ed around the outside.  The finish is just a coat of boiled linseed oil to bring out the grain and figure in this beautiful wood.  After spending so much time working through my end table project it was nice to put something together that did not take much thought or effort.  Thanks for looking ~ Jeremy

Wednesday, February 19, 2014

Update to the End Table

  Slowly but surely I am trudging along. Now that the carcass, and the drawer are complete, what am I gonna do for the stand?
  For the this table I wanted to do something that really set it apart from the other (not built by me) furniture. So for the legs I decided to do a cross let, or X legs as I found out they can be called. This is something that I have never done before so true to this project, another learning experience.

  I used what what left of my rift sawn walnut to create some blanks for my four legs. I ripped the pieces to about 1.25” wide and 23” long then glued them together. From there I set my ts blade to the 45 degrees and beveled each corner giving them a look that I thought matched the rest of it. I suppose it may not be typical for this era of furniture but really I have no idea about that type of thing yet. So I am just going for looks and authenticity.

Now for the part I regret now. I took my legs and placed them on top of each other and figured in my head what angle to cut the top and bottom. After cutting them I laid them back down and marked the mortises. After using my favorite saw and chisel I fit them together. However they were not the same height when stood up. So it looks like the angle of my cut was off.

I should of thought through this more. So those pieces went to the scrap pile and I had to pick up another board to redo them. Since I had more wood, I increased their width for better support. I cut the bevels the same but for cutting the mortise of where the cross I tried something different.
A small box was built that was the width of where I wanted the legs to attach to the base. My wife the engineer gave me a hand and we figured out the required angle that it would need to be the height I wanted.

From there I cut the tops of each leg at 29 degrees and then laid them in the box. I measure and marked them. The mortise was cut, this time a little bit shallower. After trimming them I got a tight fit and both sets of legs matched. Now that will do.

This whole process was made much more difficult than it should be in hind sight. Why I did not just put the legs on the table saw in my miter gauge and cut them that way,I have no idea. Maybe because that would be too easy.
Well now it sits, just needing to attach the legs to the base. My plan is to use two dowels for each leg. If anyone has any better ideas or suggestions on how this should be done, I am all ears. As always thanks for stopping by.

Wednesday, February 12, 2014

Saw Kerf Box

  I wanted to practice making a box with hidden splines so I grabbed some red oak scraps I had. Following one of Doug Stowes book I created the sled for my router, which worked pretty darn well. However I ran into issues cutting the splines on the TS, since I do not have a band saw. Working with small pieces on the table saw is a skill I need to work on.

  Anyway after the box was done, I had the idea to mimic the outside of the box to a building I saw in Chicago. So I set the blade on my table saw to 1/8th and cut a dado around the box, then moved the fence in 1/8th and cut again. It actually went rather quickly, being one of the only times I just used the tape measure built into the saw.
  The top came off rather smoothly and fit well. Using the flip stick method I addded the hinges, and they went smoother than ever. The slight gap in the box was due to some slightly lager than needed screws holding hinges. I really need to find a good supplier of brass screws of all different sizes. I replaced them after the pics were taken and it sits perfectly flush now.
I finished it with my beloved quick drying BLO and was carefull to use a card scrapper with a rag around it to remove the puddled BLO that collected in the kerfs.

Thanks for Looking,


Thursday, January 30, 2014

First Shot at an End Table

  **Updated Below**

  I have been spending most of my time learning by making some small boxes, cutting boards, shop jigs, blanket chests so far. My goal for later this year is to redo an area upstairs in my house and add a desk with shelves and cabinets. The plan is to do small projects that allow me to pick up a skill to be applied to the later project.  So for my next learning experience I am building my first end table. I am starting this blog partway through the process and will cover what has been done so far.

  While I was browsing the projects page on Lumber Jocks a table David Larch built really caught my eye. Maybe it was his ultra clean lines, or the way the grain wrapped the table, or just the great pics he had of it. I copied his and started planning my own with my dimensions.
  After a short trip to my local lumber yard, I picked out three quarter sawn 4/4 walnut boards. I have really started to enjoy working with walnut. Hopefully the figure in the boards will keep the eye away from any mistakes I make and cannot properly cover up.
Progress so far:

Laid the boards and marked them. Like David’s, I wanted to keep the grain continuity on three sides.
Cut the boards to rough length, leaving enough to accommodate for any snipe issues.

Borrowed my dad’s joiner and put it to good use. There were the slightest of a bow in a couple boards that came out quit easily. Joiner is definitely my next tool purchase!

Planed the boards to ¾ “ thickness. Did not end up with too much of a snipe issue, however I really need to get a proper stand for my planner.

  I took the board I selected for the front part of the table and added a partially beveled edge to it. As I am starting to do more and more, I ran a test on some scrap to get the look I wanted. No more jumping in head first.

  The top, sides, back, and bottom where glued up with some new pipe clamps I got for Christmas. I also used cauls to help keep them level. They turned out great, and with minimum scraping the seams are not noticeable to the touch.

  All the boards were mitered on the table saw. I really really need to make a sled for my mitered joints. Maybe I will turn my current sled into one after I upgrade to a new one. To see how it looked, I taped the joints and put it together.

  Figuring it is easier to sand now, I went ahead and worked them from 80-220 with a couple grits in the middle.

  At this junction I was wondering if glued mitered joints were going to be strong enough. I reached out to David and he was gracious enough to reply very quickly that he used a Domino joiner. Seeing as I do not have one of those or a biscuit joiner, I did what I have done on some of my boxes and decided to go with a hidden spline and a floating tounge. I got my jig that I use on my boxes and routed out the grooves.

So this is as far as I have gotten. I need to figure out what wood and joint to use for my drawer. Until then, thanks for looking.

So the fun continues. Now it was time for me to make the drawer. The table was assembled using packing tape so that I could get my dimmensions.

Dovetails are what I decided to go with. Besides I could finally use the dovetail jig I picked up off craigslist last year for. Problem was I could not find a bushing guide for the dovetail bit. I had a to wait a few days before I was able to make it Woodcraft and pick me up another one. After getting all the parts, I practiced by making a half dozen joints using some poplar. I ended up being able to create some tight joints and it was time to move on to the walnut for the real thing.
The poplar joints ended up much tighter than I got with the walnut but after gluing them up they tighten up nicely. After adding the bottom of birch plywood, the drawer was strong enough. At this point I had my first twinge of regret, wishing I had made the drawer side thinner than the 1/2” I went with. I planed the top and bottom flush.

Next it was time to add the dado to the drawer. At this stage I started getting a bit nervous, knowing that a screw up with a router can quickly make scrap wood out of my project. In fact the closer to the end I always get a bit nervous with every cut. Uusally instead of measuring twice, I will go over four times or so. This causes me to slow to a crawl whenever I get towards the end. Guess I might get a little quicker as my confidence grows.
I cut the runners and sanded them ultra smooth. After careful measurement of there placement I secured them using glue and a couple of brads. Tested the drawer and it ended a little tight. After a couple passes with my small block plane it ended up where I wanted it, especially with a touch of wax.

The rear piece to the table was cut and slid into the dado’s I cut using my table saw. Really could use a dado blade by now, but made do with several passes.
For the drawer face I used a real nice board I had been saving with a great grain pattern. I cut it a bit proud, then planed it to exact fit.

So now I am ready for the glue up, but before it I gave the insides of the table a a couple coats of BLO. Man does that stuff really bring out the character of the wood. There is a golden hue to it that I did not expect.

Next installment should have me gluing up the whole thing. I still need to wrap my mind around the proper way to clamp the whole thing but that is a problem for a different day.

Thanks for the look.


Wednesday, December 25, 2013

Full Yankee and Half Yankee Collaboration

  Typically when you give someone a Christmas gift it is a bit of surprise.  However with this gift my dad was there for every part of it and helped me create such a great piece for him.  We both learned a lot from each other and had a great time building it.  Being able to pull this off together shows how much each of us has grown. 

 This is a small memory box of  some amazing figured Tiger Maple with Jatoba splines and lid handle.  The mitres were done on my new table saw and are tighter than anything I have completed before.  We used a newly made jig for the splines which was more accurate than using my router table.  It was sanded down to a very smooth 400 grit.  For the finish I applied Boiled Linseed Oil which pulled the curvy figure out even more.  Then after letting it sit for an hour, I gave it a thin coat of clear Shellac for some protection.  Typically I would add another layer or two of Shellac and some wax but I know this gift will be very well cared for.  As usual the hinges were a pain in the ass and I really need to find a fool proof method for them, even though these turned out ok. 

  So here is the labor of love between dad and son, the Full Yankee and the Half Yankee, Jim and Jeremy Jordan.

Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Season 2

  Well it is official woodworking time at the Half Yankee Workshop again.  Season two starts off sorta like season 2 of Gold Rush if you have ever seen that.  Guess the best way to describe it is that, they spend alot more money on equipment, they are already behind when they start, and still don't really know what they are doing.

  Alot has happened since I was last active in here and kept me busy.  During that time I have sailed around the Virgin Islands, explored Korea(South, why do you even ask) and completed my full Trimix technical diving training that culminated in 300ft dive in Mexico.
  Also I have upgraded a few things in my garage, including a new table saw, improved lighting, more outlets, and a quasi dust collector.